Skincare ingredients, explained
What each ingredient does, who it suits, and what not to combine it with.
- Allantoin A gentle soothing agent that helps skin feel smoother and less irritated.
- Alpha arbutin A brightening ingredient that helps reduce the look of dark spots.
- Azelaic acid Helps with redness, breakouts and dark marks, and is usually well tolerated.
- Bakuchiol A plant-derived ingredient often used as a gentler alternative to retinol.
- Benzoyl peroxide Targets acne-causing bacteria. Effective for inflamed breakouts, but can dry and bleach fabric.
- Centella asiatica (cica) A plant extract widely used in Korean skincare to calm redness and support recovering skin.
- Ceramides Lipids that are a natural part of the skin barrier. Adding them back helps skin hold on to moisture.
- Glycerin One of the most common and reliable humectants. It keeps skin hydrated and is in most moisturizers.
- Glycolic acid (AHA) A water-soluble exfoliant that smooths texture and brightens dull skin.
- Green tea An antioxidant extract that helps calm skin and protect it from everyday stress.
- Heartleaf (houttuynia) A Korean botanical used to calm the skin and balance oil, especially in toners.
- Hyaluronic acid A humectant that draws water into the top layers of skin, making it look plumper and feel less tight.
- Lactic acid (AHA) A gentler AHA that exfoliates while also helping skin hold water.
- Niacinamide A form of vitamin B3 that helps balance oil, supports the skin barrier and evens out the look of tone and pores.
- PHA (gluconolactone) The mildest family of exfoliating acids, suited to sensitive skin.
- Panthenol (vitamin B5) A soothing, hydrating ingredient that helps calm irritated skin and supports barrier repair.
- Peptides Short chains of amino acids that support firmness and the look of fine lines.
- Retinal (retinaldehyde) A faster-acting form of vitamin A than retinol, one step closer to the form skin uses.
- Retinol A vitamin A derivative that speeds up cell turnover, helping with fine lines, texture and breakouts.
- Salicylic acid (BHA) An oil-soluble exfoliant that works inside pores, helping with blackheads and breakouts.
- Snail mucin A hydrating secretion filtrate popular in K-beauty for a bouncy, comfortable feel.
- Squalane A light, stable oil that softens skin and reduces water loss without feeling greasy.
- Tranexamic acid Helps fade stubborn dark spots and uneven tone, and pairs well with niacinamide.
- Urea Hydrates at low strengths and gently softens rough, flaky skin at higher strengths.
- Vitamin C An antioxidant that brightens, helps fade dark marks and boosts the protection of your sunscreen.
- Zinc oxide A mineral UV filter that protects against both UVA and UVB and suits sensitive skin.