Niacinamide: what it does, how much you need, and what to pair it with

Niacinamide shows up in serums, toners, moisturizers and even sunscreens. It is one of the few actives that suits almost every skin type, which is why it appears in so many of our routines. Here is what it does, how much you actually need, and how to use it with everything else.

What is niacinamide?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3. It is water-soluble, stable, and generally well tolerated, so it fits easily into morning and evening routines.

What it helps with

Oil and shine: it can help reduce how much oil the skin produces, which is why it is popular for oily and combination skin.
The look of pores: less oil and better-balanced skin make pores look smaller.
The skin barrier: it supports the skin’s own production of ceramides, which helps the skin hold on to water.
Uneven tone and dark marks: it can reduce the transfer of pigment to the surface of the skin, helping marks fade over time.
Redness: by supporting the barrier, it can help skin look calmer.

How much do you need?

More is not always better. Much of the research uses concentrations of 2% to 5%, and these levels are well studied and gentle for most people. Many popular serums contain 10%. That suits plenty of skins, but if you notice redness, warmth or tingling, try a product with a lower percentage before giving up on niacinamide altogether.

How to use it

Morning, evening or both. It does not make skin sensitive to the sun.
As a serum, after cleansing (and toner, if you use one) and before moisturizer. Or choose a moisturizer that already contains it.
Be patient. Give it 8 to 12 weeks for tone and marks. Changes in oiliness can show sooner.

What can you pair it with?

Niacinamide pairs well with almost everything:

Retinol: a good match. Niacinamide’s barrier support can make retinol easier to tolerate.
Hyaluronic acid and ceramides: together they hydrate and protect.
Exfoliating acids: fine in the same routine. If your skin is sensitive, use them at different times of day.
Vitamin C: an old myth says they cancel each other out. That idea came from old lab tests in conditions that do not match a modern skincare routine. Most skins can use both, in the same routine or one in the morning and one at night.

Who should be careful?

Niacinamide is gentle, but a small number of people react to higher concentrations with flushing or itching. If that happens, switch to a lower percentage, or use it every other day. As always, patch-test a new product first.

Where to start

If your main concerns are oil, pores or marks, niacinamide is a strong first active. See it in action in our routine for oily skin and routine for combination skin, or let the routine builder choose a niacinamide product that matches your skin and budget.

This article is general information, not medical advice. If you have a skin condition, see a dermatologist.